This article is for beginners and those who have long wanted to master the extension and modeling of nails with gel, without sawdust. Today we will look at how to properly build from A to Z in detail.
Not in all cases, gel polish is a panacea and can transform any hands. Therefore, it is very cool if you are a master all-rounder and know how not only to cover your nails with gel polish, but also to model.
The first important step that you need to pay attention to is the preparation of the nail plate. This will determine whether detachments will appear in the future. Do a manicure, peel the pterygium and only then, after modeling, cut off the cuticle. You can do a classic edged manicure, but do not steam your hands too much, as the nails will be saturated with moisture and subsequently this will lead to detachments. Pay attention to the area of the lateral sinuses so that later the extension form fits tightly and nothing interferes.
Now is the time to shape the free edge. We remove it completely. If the client’s nails are short, the distal ridge protrudes, and the client has a nail-biting habit, then a very small free edge can be left. It is important that the points of the nail growth are at the same level. If one is higher than the other, then do not saw through it even more. Why is it important to completely remove the free edge? When we model the nail, then the shape needs to be lifted up a little, and the free edge simply will not allow this to be done.
The next step is matting the nail plate with a soft files – 240 grit. We need the scales of the nail plate to rise well. We put the lance on the nail plate and make long movements from left to right. Also, this step can be done with a diamond cutter. We expose a low speed of 5-7 thousand revolutions, forward position, from right to left, without pressing on the nail plate. Matt the nail plate so that no glossy areas remain, especially on the sides, so that detachments do not occur.
The next step is to apply preparatory, adhesive preparations. The first is dehydrator, which dries deeply the nail plate. The second step is acid-free primer which, like double-sided tape, improves the adhesion between the artificial material and the natural nail plate. The third step is gel base, it can be replaced with a base for gel polish, but you need to test how well it will be friends with your modeling gel. Three points that provide a good grip and should not be missed.
Apply the dehydrator quickly to the entire nail plate, without fear of contact with the skin. The primer, on the contrary, is strongly wrung out with a brush. One brush is enough for several nails. If there is an overabundance of primer, this can also lead to detachment. It is important not to get on the skin and lateral sinuses, as after the primer stickiness forms, and the gel will flow into the sinuses. The primer needs some time for the excess to evaporate. Always apply the base gel in a thin layer, rubbing in so that the material penetrates between the scales of the nail plate and provides better adhesion. We send it to the lamp to dry for two minutes.
One of the difficult steps for beginners is staging forms… They are different: paper, plastic, metallized. It is important that the molds have a good adhesive base so that they do not open during drying in the lamp. They had additional markings to make it easier to cut them. I would like to dwell on this stage in more detail.
Let’s simulate the shape of the almonds. Tear off one mold, remove the window and cut it out with scissors.
This will make it easier for a novice master to work, because the form will not annoyingly stick to the gloves. The first step is to twist the shape, because our nail plate has an arch and the shape must repeat it.
In this twisted state, we substitute the form to the nail plate.
If we see a gap between the nail and the form, then so that it is not possible to lift the mold upwards, there will be no gap, but at the same time the form itself will rise up. Such a setting is not typical for the almond shape – it should go evenly or slightly tilted down, depending on the length of the nails. In order to remove the gap between the nail and the form, you need to remove those parts of the form that interfere and therefore now, by starting the scissors, we make the depression wider.
Not deeper, but wider.
We supply again to the nail plate and now there is no gap.
The next step is to make notches. This is in order to free the side rollers so that they do not push out the form and so that the form does not stand wide. I mark the points of the growth of the line diagonally. At the same time, see that the center line is in continuation of the central axis of the finger.
Once again, we apply the form to the nail, check that nothing is in the way, only now at this stage we remove the form from the substrate and immediately glue it. It is necessary to glue exactly the ear to the ear. We make a thin loop.
This is what the prepared form looks like. You and I can open our ears. We ourselves adjust the level of inclination of the client’s finger, adjust the slope of the mold, glue the rear ears. We turn our hand away from ourselves and look at the symmetry so that the shape does not go to the side. If it goes to the side, then peel off one eyelet and correct it as needed. Only after these manipulations, when we are convinced that everything is fine, and correctly, we can compress the shape making it a little narrower. When viewed from above, we will only see a triangle. The shape should not be wide or open, so that the nails do not visually turn out like shoulder blades. If the upper lugs are glued together, this indicates that the form is straight. Since you are just learning to model, it will be easier to set the shapes one nail at a time. We put in the mold, applied the gel, and so on. When you have a little more experience, you can put the forms on 2-4 nails at once and immediately spread the material.
Which gel is it better to choose a novice master? In terms of consistency, it will be more convenient to work with a gel of thick or medium consistency. You will have time to cope with it. The gel will not run as quickly as the liquid material. It is usually difficult for beginners to work with jelly gels, soufflé gels, because they require great skill to lay them out.
Put a small amount of material on the brush, place a drop on the free edge, extend the length and then shape the almonds.
We work with the material as if by air, pulling it only by the upper part. Be sure to cover the growth point well with the material so that there are no cracks in it. We turn our finger to the side and form the side wall correctly: first there is a straight line, and then a smooth ascent upward. The markings on the form tell you how to do it correctly. We turn our hand to the other side and lay out the material. If you do not support with your little finger, then the brush will penetrate deeply and an even coating will not work. We immediately form the nails for readiness, do not lay out the material in reserve, do not lay out the square shape – everything should be as if you have already sawed off the free edge. If you put in excess, clean the brush and remove the excess. Then we send it to the lamp to dry, for one minute.
In this way, substrates are first formed on all nails. In fact, the wearability and beauty of future nails depends on the correct formulation. By training every day, you will master this very quickly and you will be able to substitute the form without difficulty. Do not be guided by the cells that are drawn on the form, because we cut the form and the cells go away.
Compare the length by applying the cuticle to the cuticle. We remove the excess so that later we do not cut the length for a long time.
It is important to put the form correctly, without gaps. Gel will get into the gaps and there will be steps under the nail that will irritate the client, he will pick them and can break off the nail. Cut the shape correctly. It should fit perfectly to the nail plate. With an asymmetrical free edge, when one point of growth is higher than the other, the shape will also be cut asymmetrically, but when setting, everything will clearly coincide.
If, during drying, the client experiences unpleasant sensations, for example, a burning sensation, informs him that he needs to remove his hand from the lamp, wait until the burning sensation has passed and put it back on the final polymerization.
When done with the underlay stage, remove the shapes. It is important to do this also correctly: we separate the substrate from the form, squeeze it and lower the form down.
If lifted up, the substrate is thin and may break. The thickness of the substrate is 0.3-0.5 mm. Degrease and shape. Imagine shaping natural nails by making graceful almonds. When filing, be very careful not to break the substrate. We remove the dust, degrease it and proceed to cut the cuticle.
Why is it better to cut the cuticle at this stage? Because in this way you can put the modeling gel closer to the cuticle, so that regrowth is less visible. We will also lay out without sawdust.
To form the architecture, you can take a gel that is more liquid in consistency, so that it smooths out faster. We coat the entire nail plate with a thin layer, in three movements, so that the gel is independently distributed over it. We collect a large drop corresponding to the length of the nail, put it on the highest point and stretch it out, and put the excess back into the jar. At a 45 degree angle, pushing the material towards the cuticle along the entire perimeter, starting from the left through the middle to the right side of the cuticle. We tilt the client’s finger down a little so that there are no leaks at the cuticle. We turn the client’s hand over and use a thin brush to distribute the material into the correct architecture.
Imagine you are aligning your nails with a base, but just use such a thick base for that. As a result, you should see a glare from the lamp on the surface. This will indicate that the surface is flat and we can send it to dry.
If your client’s nails are wide, trapezoidal nails need to be tucked in to make them look beautiful. To do this, you can use clip-clip… When the customer gets hot in the lamp, this is the highest polymerization point. This is the very moment when you need to put on the clothespin and send it back to the lamp to dry. The important thing is that it shouldn’t hurt. If the client is hurt, then you put the clothespin on the skin incorrectly, correct it and send it to dry.
We continue to perform this gel modeling on the rest of the nails. We moisten the surface, collect a modeling drop, put it on the highest point, clean the brush in a jar, distribute it around the cuticle along its entire perimeter. Make sure there are no leaks. This is very important because every leak will become detachment.
This is how the nails look after modeling.
If you don’t like something, somewhere the material has leaked, you can remove the sticky layer and file it. Now you can cover your nails with colored gel polish or top, or design what you want or what your client wants.
As a result, the nails should turn out to be graceful, thin, at the ends not more than 1 mm, because all architecture is in the central stress zone. Modeling one hand will take approximately 1 hour. Without the ability to work as a conveyor, such work will take no more than 2 hours.
Success in your work.